I think it’s safe to say a majority of us consume a lot of watch content.
Watch culture is so vast you could easily find yourself going down a different rabbit hole every day.
Recently, while doing a deep dive on vintage Cartier, I read somewhere that a Tank is just as versatile as a Datejust.
That was an interesting sentiment. At first, this statement was met with my own confusion. It wasn’t until after some time that I found myself agreeing with it.
Coupled with my curiosity, I had the opportunity to own a ‘Tank Louis’ of sorts. While the name on the dial isn’t exactly what you’d expect, it features a 18k case with the exact proportions of a traditional men’s Tank Louis. Additionally, the dial of this piece featured the same Roman Numeral layout yet in a brushed gold material.
Today, I wanted to propose this thought on versatility, and question the practicality of a Tank based on my own experiences and observations.
Once in a Blue Moon, or Everyday Piece?
The Tank Louis is often regarded as the pinnacle dress watch. With the term ‘dress watch’ comes the connotation that it’s far from an everyday piece. In short, not many people wear a dress piece as their everyday option.
That being said, its undeniable that the design of the tank, whether it’s Cartier branded, or from a brand like Vacheron, is extremally dressy in principle. Yet, I believe it’s the pop culture influence surrounding both the brand and design allow the piece to be worn in less-than-formal settings.
Paired with a lizard strap, the dial on this Vacheron ‘Tank Louis’ explodes in the sun
Truthfully, I feel the tank actually looks coolest when it’s dressed down. Sure, if you’ve got it on an exotic crocodile strap and wear it to a fancy dinner, it’ll steal the show. But man, if you put a tank on a brightly colored strap and wear it with shorts and some kicks as a daily, it’s a cool look you won’t regret.
I once heard a friend of mine reference that the reason they love their Rolex so much is because you can bond with it more than a dressy piece. A Rolex is a piece you can wake up to, wear in any scenario, beat it to hell, and do it all over again the next day. You bond with it more than an ultra slim Piaget or Vacheron was the point my friend hoped to make.
I disagree with that entirely.
I’ve found that while wearing this tank for a week, it was at home on my wrist more often than not. Additionally, I have more respect for the rarity of such a piece sporting a design so refined it’s remained nearly unchanged for a century. These aspects of style and provenance created the feeling of a much more special and noteworthy piece on wrist compared to something more common like my Seamaster.
Showing off how muted this piece can be in natural light
The Fun in a Piece Like This
Judging by the pics, I’m sure you’ll recognize how this piece looks great on a variety of straps. It’s rather monotone in color, and quite rich when paired with something with a pop of color (as opposed to the ‘old money’ feel of this Vacheron on a muted leather).
That being said, I had the most fun while wearing this watch for a week compared to others in my collection.
I feel that as collectors, we often fall victim to the idea that a watch needs to match our wardrobe (generally speaking). This, in part, explains the mass appeal of the Submariner considering it’s classic yet looks good in any scenario.
The case with the tank, however, is that I had the most fun while being daring in how I styled the piece. While its design is iconic, it’s one rarely seen on a male wrist in the wild. Consequently, I found this piece happened to look great as I wore something as casual as a flannel or vintage t-shirt.
A closeup look at the brushing and details present within the dial
Having a piece where one can play with aspects of its design to match individual style isn’t just fun, but refreshing.
I feel the culture of collecting lends itself to a sense of conformity in some instances, and this piece breaks those expectations with each wear.
Its Value
All things considered, I often found myself joking about the value of this Vacheron.
Think of it this way - how much would a Cartier Tank Louis from the 1960s in near NOS condition with the original strap and unique ‘rose’ case patina go for at auction? Likely more bands than I’ve got. Yet this piece was sold closer to $3,000, and it’s by Vacheron, and objectively more prestigious house than Cartier. It doesn’t stop there, however, considering this piece is in an ultra slim configuration.
This balance of value offered by a ‘trinity’ name is nothing short of comedic irony in my eyes as a collector, and an accurate roast of the current state of the market.
A small piece that packs a massive punch
Value considered, along with my experiences with this Vacheron ‘Tank Louis’ over the past week has left me in awe.
I recommend a piece such as this to any serious vintage collector with a space in their watch box craving a haute piece of fun. It looks great in nearly every situation, and has a home with those who truly appreciate the craftsmanship behind the peak of Swiss watchmaking.
These stuffy terms, however, shouldn’t be used to downplay how fun a Tank Louis can be. Don’t believe me? Get one on wrist…then we’ll talk (;