Spring, and a Two Tone Datejust
My thoughts and experience with this icon, and an analysis of the vintage DJ market
With warmer weather blessing the east coast, I figured I’d take the opportunity to discuss one of the watches that’ll thank you for wearing short sleeves.
Today we are looking at perhaps the most stereotypical Rolex that comes to mind when the brand is mentioned. It’s a reference 1601, two tone, on a 14k USA bracelet.
One I got hands on for this article - unpolished two tone thanks to my friend at Kurtz Timepieces who’s got the drop on incredible watches like this one
The Rolex Datejust is widely regarded as the best foray into the brand’s vintage offerings. It’s a Rolex that’s highly collectable, doesn’t break the bank, and comes in seemingly endless configurations. A true ‘do-it-all’ piece that’s loved by new collectors and seasoned enthusiasts alike. They even serve as a safe place to put away a few grand with the intentions of the watch’s value continuing to increase.
It can’t go unsaid, however, that the price increase on these models has been rather dramatic as of recent.
Take a look at the market just a couple years ago - Datejusts were trading for about half of what they are now. I’ve theorized that there wasn’t some shortage or rarity factor to cause this dramatic price increase, but a larger pool of buyers, and more ‘hype’ behind the brand.
Matched with a flannel, they’re incredibly versatile.
Now, as their prices seem to climb daily, and we see big time dealers offering them above 5k USD, it makes me wonder if they’re still ‘good buys’ in regards to their value.
Originally I was going to show examples of overpriced Datejusts offered by dealers in the space, but I changed my mind to keep this article as pure as possible - after all, it’s pretty easy to pop over to T&H and prove my point of $6,300 DJs on straps.
Today, join me in a discussion on the state of the vintage DJ market, and my opinions of their value compared to other watches in the same price bracket.
My Love Hate Relationship
Not long ago was a Datejust at 4k considered overpriced. Now, that’s a bargain. From this factor alone stems my love hate relationship with ‘em.
To give a baseline of data for this discussion, let’s take a look into the market averages based on data from Watch Charts.
Average market price for the 1601 / credit: Watch Charts
You can see how the price has remained relatively steady, going above 6k at times, and dipping down to a roughly $300 increase from this time last year.
Overall, I believe this data proves the steady nature of the Datejust, and that it’s a safe buy for those worried about value retention. All things considered though, is it still a value buy for the vintage enthusiast? Or is it an example of yet another overpriced Rolex?
My Thoughts
Personally, I’ve found that when the initial buzz of Rolex wears off after owning a few, you realize that there’s other pieces that can offer the same enjoyment at a fraction of the price. On the flip side, there are guys who only collect stuff from the brand, and the Datejust is often the watch of choice.
While I respect this perspective, I’ve found there’s more enjoyable pieces for far less money.
I realized that the image of Rolex is very different for the enthusiast immersed in this crazy culture than the average guy who’s brainwashed by their marketing. Partially, this desensitization of the brand keeps me up at night, because I remember the days of when all I wanted was an OP to complete my collection (a seemingly impossible goal at the time). On the other hand, however, I’m grateful for my realization that the Datejust isn’t the juggernaut it’s cracked up to be.
To me, buying a Rolex, even vintage, should have that luxurious experience behind it, and that factor is rare with the current state of the market. If you desire that classic 1601, you either gulp down an exorbitant price tag from a dealer simply because they can charge that much, or do business in a forum or wholesale group where guys trade these things in plastic bags like stocks.
Now don’t get it twisted - I’m not throwing shade at wholesale dealers, I’m simply highlighting the current state of buying a DJ. You either pay full market, or hunt the corners of the internet for a deal.
I wasn’t kidding
This sour taste is amplified by the ‘boys club’ that the modern Rolex market has become. It’s become such common knowledge how much of a mess the modern market currently is that I don’t even have to indulge further for you to know exactly what I’m talkin’ about.
The Datejust used to be one of the best kept secrets of the vintage market, and if they still were, I’d probably own one. Now, however, they’re just inflated in my eyes.
The charm of a vintage bracelet is unmatched, despite their lesser quality
Still, within these bipolar rants lies a love for the versatility and safety guaranteed by the brand that wears the crown. I absolutely love how a Datejust wears, they look incredible, and I’ve met some of the best guys in this space through buying them.
My advice is that if you track one down within a price range you’re comfortable, don’t hesitate. However, if you agree with my assessment of their dramatic price increase, then look to other more affordable alternatives.
I get just as much (if not more) enjoyment out of my Seamaster than any Rolex, and it cost an absolute fraction of the price. I just find it hard buying a steel DJ on strap when Day Dates on strap at that price are a not-so-distant memory.
Summing it Up
For me, I think the Datejust is a steady, solid buy that is unmatched in versatility and wearability. They’re safe, look great, and garner respect from every corner of the watch world. I continue to discover, however, that I have the most fun with watches that aren’t Rolex.
Rolex designs are just a tad on the boring side for me. Sure, I love owning and wearing an oyster, but don’t get it twisted - true vintage rarities are much more fun to hunt, curate, wear, and document. That’s just the kind of collector I am, and it isn’t a crack towards people who love the DJ.
For instance, the story of Rolex has been beaten to death, but the story of a tropical Polerouter, or perhaps a rare Patek are still yet to be appreciated on a mass scale. Therein I have the most fun with this hobby.