An Industrial Cartier Photo Dump in the Bleak of Winter
I unveil a smol watch that I added to my collection with the help of one of the best dealers in the game
Ahhhh Cartier…
I used to have a ultra slim Santos Dumont, with the F.P. 21 caliber inside. Not only was it pure Cartier, but a piece of high horology. Looking at their current prices, goddamn I wish I kept it!
After selling this Cartier, I was enamored by the brand. A trip to the local Cartier boutique allowed me to experience the Tank Louis, Steel Solo, and the modern Santos.
I was struck by the Santos - the steel version. It was quintessential, Cartier’s steel luxury. The design language was pure Cartier, yet with an automatic movement, and robust case, it makes for a very wearable timepiece from a brand often associated with the most delicate watches imaginable.
I am, however, a vintage geek, and rarely like anything modern. So I sought out to find what the vintage version of this Santos would be, and I think I found it…
My Santos
It had to be in all steel, have an automatic movement, and be unique in some way. Here’s what I ended up buying -
You’ll notice how sharp the case is along with the bracelet, and how the dial is a vibrant burgundy color. There are rumors that the red dial Santos was produced to commemorate the 75th anniversary of the Santos. Others argue these rumors saying it’s the product of ‘must’ era dials.
I made this piece mine with the help of my friends over at Relojes Vintage Mexico. Some of the coolest, most interesting watches I’ve ever owned have come from them, and their attention to detail is unmatched in the watch space.
Through my purchase with them, I learned some more about the history and significance of this Santos.
Interestingly, the dial has gone a little ‘tropical’ where some areas show the lacquer has been exposed to sunlight. Its also got little spider cracks on the dial, which in my opinion, fits the immaculate case perfectly.
Speaking of the case, this was one of the only Santos iterations to get a satin/brushed finished bezel as other models have a polished bezel. This is a huge change and gives the watch a much more industrial look.
In the 1970s, we were introduced to the idea of steel as luxury. With the introduction of the Royal Oak, industrial Genta design was a Hail Mary that changed the watch game forever. This Santos was Cartier’s response to that movement.
Interestingly enough, this is apart of Cartier’s first line to foray into steel. Prior to this, it was entirely precious metal, so it goes unsaid that the first steel Cartier is more than special.
Matching its dial, the sapphire cabochon was replaced with a burgundy ruby. In a world of rarity, a Cartier with these aspects is special nonetheless, especially considering how wearable and modern it is for being a vintage delicacy.
Why it’s Perfect
For me, this piece is just too fun.
Recently, the brand has embraced the colors of the ‘Must’ age by offering tanks with blue, green, and burgundy dials. It’s funny to me that dials this vibrant have existed for 40 years, and that I was able to find an original so full of character.
You might be surprised to hear I went for the 24mm version —— Gasp! ——
Often regarded as the ladies version, this is the MIDSIZED offering! Cartier watches are essentially unisex, especially when talking vintage. Before you roast this size, first consider the size of the traditional men’s Tank Louis, then consider that the midsized example is the purest of them all.
If I went for the 29mm example, I would have to deal with a disgusting date window. Instead, I went for the 24mm to have the purest dial possible that isn’t disrupted by a useless date. I’m telling you, having the date destroys this piece, and one without a date makes it so clean and modern.
Since we’ve discussed this one briefly, please enjoy this photo dump of my new Santos in different shades of natural light. Taken during the bleak part of winter, I believe the industrial design matches the vibe well.
Thank you for checking out my most recent acquisition. Since buying this piece, I’ve spoken to a few within the community who have told me the 24mm example is on their radar as well. I see so much potential with this exact Santos model, especially considering its larger brother just fetched $8,000 at auction.