Polerouter Series Part 1: Detailed History
A storied history of aviation and horological prowess
This article is the first part of a series on the Universal Geneve Polerouter. Here, we propose a collection of articles to drop over the next coming weeks about different aspects of this timepiece.
Next week we will be discussing movements and references, and the following week will be a discussion on the collectability and culture behind the model.
Each article, or ‘part’ will be concise yet clear in the information it conveys aimed at the new enthusiast and seasoned collector alike.
Without any further explanation, let us dive into the well-documented history of the Polerouter, and why it’s worth discovering.
Inception
In 1954, 23-year old Gerald Genta was commissioned by Universal Geneve to design a watch commemorating a new ‘polar route’ of travel between Europe and the United States.
This polar route was exactly that - a path from Copenhagen to Los Angeles over the North Pole. Taking this path of flight was not only significantly quicker for SAS pilots and passengers, but marked a moment of innovation in aviation.
Ads for this moment in shared watchmaking aviation history
Perspective is key when talking the state of aviation in 1954 - nearly 50 years following the Wright Brothers’ wood and paper plane success, and in a mere 15 years man would be walking on the Moon.
Taking a path around the North Pole posed a challenge for Universal Geneve. The thought of excessive magnetism was a hurdle for movement engineers to address.
At this time in watchmaking innovation, resistance to magnetism was rarely an addressed or desired complication, making the Polerouter a pioneer of sorts in this field.
The Rolex Milgauss comes to mind when discussing watches built to withstand strong magnetic fields, yet the 6543 reference was also introduced in 1954, and the Polerouter was proven in the ‘field’ upon its release.
An ad giving a glimpse into the marketing and pricing structure of this timepiece during the 1960s
Genta was not yet the prolific designer we know him as today, but a young artist who cut their teeth with this rather loud (for the era) design. His submission to the brand was known as the Polarouter in reference to the SAS flight path.
Upon a successful landing at LAX, the SAS pilots were gifted these Polarouter watches with the logo of the airline inscribed on the dial. Not long after was the timepiece released, the following year saw the model undergo a name change to ‘Polerouter’ as it was released to the mass market.
An example of this rare SAS iteration rumored to be in the mere 3 digit range of production / credit Wind Vintage
One of the most iconic aspects of the Polerouter design is the twisted lug case. Produced by the Swiss firm Huguenin Freres, this is the same company responsible for producing early ‘pre-moon’ Speedmaster cases.
The 138SS caliber first powered the watch. This bumper caliber could be felt with every swing of the wrist, and was soon replaced by the cal 215 microtor in 1955. Polerouters have become synonymous with the microtor movement (being an slim automatic achieved by a micro rotor).
Pricing at the time was nearly equivalent to a Rolex Explorer, so we must imagine the quality between the two is nearly comparable. The Polerouter served as a keystone for Universal Geneve, and propelled the brand to some success throughout the 1960s that would inevitably come crashing during the Quartz Crisis.
Considering the rich history behind the Polerouter allows one to draw comparisons to other well-accomplished icons within the culture. Watches to gain this ‘icon’ status typically have one aspect of their heritage responsible for that notation. The Speedmaster’s trip to space or the Explorer’s holiday to Everest comes to mind. The Polerouter is no different, seated amongst these legends.
Remove the Genta aspect of this piece, and you’re still left pondering a storied history of aviation and horological prowess. However, when one considers there would be no Royal Oak or Nautilus without the Polerouter, the significance of this UG gem is amplified ten-fold.
The prototype of a later, more recognizable Genta design
Next week we will touch on movements and notable references, and the following week, a discussion on its place in watch collecting culture. Until then, I’d love to get in touch with the community and chat the history and design of the Polerouter. The cult behind this model is strong, so these article entries should serve as a place of shared enthusiasm for not just the watch, but the era in which it represents.