Polerouter Series Part 2: Movements and Models
A concise look into some more popular models and the movements they house
This is the second part of our Polerouter series where this week we will be looking into common models and the movements to be used throughout the lines.
While we could easily write a book on every reference to grace the line, there is already an extensive online database with this information. Instead, we see more value in providing a concise discussion on popular models of the Polerouter line to set up next week’s discussion on modern collectability.
Without any further ado, let’s get into today’s Polerouter discussion.
Movements Sorted by Year
The first iteration of the Polerouter in 1954 was complete with the 138 SS bumper movement (which saw its inception in 1948). These Polerouters were a tad thicker to allow for the rotor, and they were relatively short lived. They are marked by a slower beat rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour, yet this lends itself to longer intervals between service.
The following year saw the venerable and first ‘microtor’ movement introduced. Known as the caliber 215, these were marked as patent pending until 1958 (this may help in identifying production year outside of serial). This movement had the same beat rate as its predecessor, yet the jewel count has increased from 17 with the 138 SS to 28 jewels within the first microtor. With a relatively high 60 hour power reserve, these movements are decorated and compared to the quality of the ‘holy trinity’ brands.
Throughout production history, there are many iterations of the caliber 215. In 1958, the first iteration of the common movement, the caliber 215-1, began production. This is easily distinguished by having a date at the 3 o’clock position and the watches themselves became known as ‘Polerouter Date’ watches. Nuances within the caliber 215 line exist with variations in thickness, jewel count, and integration of date that were produced into the 1960s. This marks arguably the golden era of Polerouter production throughout the 1950s and early 1960s.
An update was needed, and in 1960, Universal Geneve delivered. The microtor caliber 218 replaced all iterations of the caliber 215 around 1960, and some major deviations were noticed with its introduction. Not unlike the 215 in having different iterations (integrating a date function, for example), examples like the caliber 218-9 saw a beat frequency increase to 21,600 vibrations per hour.
A call for a more efficient winding system within these microtors saw the introduction of the caliber 69 in 1962. The architecture of the movement was rather similar to previous iterations, yet it was unique in having a different rotor shape, and a lesser-need for lubrification.
Throughout the late 1960s, a caliber 72 was introduced. It deviated most from any previous movement, and is marked as one of the last microtors before quartz was adopted by the brand. The jewel count was decreased to 25, yet the beat rate stayed the same as the 218-9. Below we’ve complied an image showing the progression of the movements mentioned.
From left to right: Calibers 138 SS, 215, 218-2, 69, and 72
Popular Models
Like I discussed earlier, there’s a plethora of references that are too numerous to mention in entirety with a concise article. Here, we pose a discussion of the most notable examples of Polerouters, beginning with the original in 1954, a reference 20217.
Credit / ThoseWatchGuys
This style of Polerouter with the twisted lugs is the original design and arguably the most iconic. From the mind of Genta, this iteration is marked by a steel chapter ring that would remain a staple to the Polerouter line as a whole.
These original examples are similar to the Polerouter Date, yet the case shape has changed slightly. Still, the unique chapter ring design is apparent, and the original design DNA remains.
Credit / Analog Shift
Staying within this progression, the design trends of the 1960s certainly had an impact on the evolution of the Polerouter. One of the more beautiful iterations to come from this decade is the Polerouter Geneve line.
These feature the same chapter ring and dial layout yet with a slimmer handset and case. Overall, this piece has a funky space-age feel to it that can’t be replicated. These pieces remain some of the more affordable Polerouters on the market that retain the original Genta design and encase movements to the highest UG quality.
A tropical example
During the 1960s there was an expansion of the Polerouter into different genres - I’m specifically referring to the dive watch iteration, or the Sub.
These Polerouter Subs often feature asymmetrical cases and vibrant color schemes, yet the same microtor movements live inside. I’d project that out of all Poleouter examples, these are most commonly supplied with a bracelet.
Credit / Bazamu
Ultimately and objectively, the models mentioned here are the most popular/commonly seen within collecting circles. There’s a host of other models that need not go unmentioned, including the Polerouter Jet, Compact, and Super, yet these deviate the most from Genta’s original design which partially explains the unequal appeal behind them (compared to a Geneve for example).
Credit / Bulang
Part of the Polerouter’s appeal lies in their collectability, which is enhanced by the fact that seemingly endless configurations exist. Those who adore these models know there’s a Polerouter for any collector, yet their prices as a whole remain still in ‘underappreciated’ territory.
The quality of these models is on par with any Rolex or Omega from the era, yet the prices reflect otherwise. While their are differences in design, their construction remains relatively similar as products of the decade they hail from.
And again, while not every iteration is discussed in detail with this article, the most notable are at least mentioned. There’s entire books of information for enthusiasts to discover, and in my mind, that’s the mark of a good buy.
I’d like to that you for sticking around and sharing in the UG enthusiasm. Next week we will release the final part to this series where we examine modern collectability and an exceptional example.