Polerouter Series Part 3: Modern Collectability
A discussion on the Polerouter's role in the collecting culture
This is the final part of our Polerouter series where this week we pose a discussion on the collectability of these vintage gems.
We begin with a note on the Polerouter’s appeal. Then, we examine specific examples and compare them to watches of similar quality. Finally, I wrap up with a discussion on my Polerouter, why I bought it, and what the current market looks like.
I’m pretty excited for this week’s edition, so let’s jump right in!
A Note on What the Polerouter Means
I feel that part of what makes vintage watch collecting so enjoyable is the stories you discover behind certain timepieces.
While modern watches often stick to marketing points for their appeal, vintage gems are the real deal, and Polerouters are no different.
Knowing the history behind my Polerouter makes strapping it on anything but ordinary. In that moment, I don’t care about its price, condition, versatility, water resistance, none of that. Instead, I’m just lost in the fact that this thing is a Genta designed pilots watch.
Not everyone finds the same appeal in these, but considering how many endless Polerouter iterations exist, there’s ample potential to find the one for you.
Comparing Quality - Specific Examples
A factor to be considered when talking collectability and market is how the average Polerouter stacks up against a similar watch from the era.
Take a look at the example I recently picked up -
A 204604-9 reference
This example is known as a Geneve (you may recognize it from last weeks article). It has a sleek, minimalist case with a rather explosive dial.
The original ‘Genta’ steel chapter ring surrounds this insanely tropical dial with jet age hands and an oh-so-60s date window.
Inside, a microtor caliber 218 powers this sleeper, and it winds so smoothly that you start to wonder if its a manual winder.
A similar watch from the era is a plain Jane Oyster Perpetual -
A 6564 reference with an underline dial
This Rolex is in a rather unassuming Oyster case about 1mm smaller than the Polerouter, has a silver sunburst dial, and features a conservative hand/indices layout. Inside, the caliber 1030 powers this piece - at the time this was really the standard Rolex automatic caliber.
Looking at these two watches, the Polerouter has a more interesting dial, more interesting movement, richer history, sleeker case, and a much better designer. When you consider that the Polerouter cost me around 1/3 the price of the Oyster, it becomes a staggering value prop in today’s vintage market.
Ultimately, when you consider the specifications and prices between these two vintage staples, you discover where some real potential still lies when talking collectability.
Why I Bought One - Modern Market
The reasoning behind my Polerouter purchase lies in my desire for a heavy hitting versatile piece from a brand I hadn’t experienced yet.
I also wanted something a tad more unique, and screams to the world my desire for vintage timepieces in a rather muted manner. I stumbled across this tropical beaut and it was really a no brainer.
Really though, when discussing why people gravitate towards this piece in today’s market, it’s a culmination of history, design, brand, and movement. For me, the Polerouter is the perfect meeting ground of these aspects, and the appeal should only grow within the vintage watch community.
Looks best in the sun
Looking to the market, however, is when you discover that collectors are catching on. A quick search on both eBay and Chrono24 reveals that most Polerouters are either redials/polished, priced way too high, or just not desirable models.
As this trend continues, a resulting price increase across the board is to be expected.
Even more rare are the bumpers that exist in the wild. Those marked ‘ Polarouter’ or with the SAS logo are more at home at Christies considering how their rarity and desirability has shot up exponentially.
This phenomenon in this facet of the vintage market is why I campaign for models like the Geneve. They deviate ever so slightly from the original twisted-lug design, yet they still represent the heart of the Polerouter line.
In short, if you’re on the fence, just pray Hodinkee doesn’t release another article on what makes them so great - I don’t think I have that ‘price increase’ effect quite yet.